By Susan Beck, Executive Editor, BERNINA of America, Inc.

As satisfying and fun as sewing is, keeping the supplies, notions, and leftovers organized so you can find them to use can be frustrating and annoying at times. I'm always looking for ways and trying new things to control my sewing space and put some order to it. I had an idea a few months ago and it has turned out to be one of those "bright ideas" that actually works! Find a 3-tier candy dish (you may have one in the back of your cupboard) and put it to use. It can be made of glass, plastic, metal, or wood, like my inexpensive one made of bamboo.

I designated my dish as a "bobbin station." It holds bobbins, bobbin threads, and related notions. I use the top tier to hold filled bobbins using round, rubber Bobbin Savers. If you have several machines like I do, you may have several different types of bobbins. I use different color Bobbin Savers for different types of bobbins: red for "regular" bobbins for BERNINA models that have a CB hook, purple for artista 730 rotary hook bobbins, and blue for Deco and bernette bobbins. (Keep reading if you want to know where I keep the jumbo bobbins for the BERNINA 820 and 830.)

The middle tier of the dish is for a variety of bobbin threads: The Bottom Line by Superior Threads, Lingerie and Bobbin Thread by YLI, and 60 weight cotton by Mettler.

The bottom tier of the dish is perfect for larger notions related to bobbins. I have my SideWinder for winding bobbins without the machine, a small basket that holds extra bobbin cases, the AC adapter for my SideWinder, and (here it is!) my jumbo bobbins for the BERNINA 8 Series machines. I also have a few packaged bobbins and cones of OESD bobbin thread that fit behind the basket.

Organizing this way lets your put more notions into a space, going up instead of out. And the best thing is that you always know where to go when your bobbin needs filling!

A note from Paula Reid, machine quilter, teacher, and BERNINA National Artisan:

Click HERE to see what I learned about the BERNINA CutWork Tool and Software! 

A note from Mary Lou Nall, teacher and author:

Mary Lou Nall recently finished a month-long trip through Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi, and Alabama, teaching her popular BERNINA Boot Camp, a class featuring BERNINA presser feet and accessories.

If you can't get to one of Mary Lou's classes, be sure to get copies of her informative books and DVDs: Heirloom Sewing with BERNINA, Just Needling with BERNINA, Foot Book 1, and Foot Book 2 (book only).

All good things must come to an end, and this is the end of the road for this 3-month series on 3 uses for Buttonhole Foot #3/3C. This final element is the actual practical use of the foot, which is the making of manual buttonholes both large and small.

When you realize that your Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/3B/3C will not create a buttonhole large enough for your oversize button - that is when you need to take out Buttonhole Foot #3/3C. The two grooves underneath the foot allow the fabric to feed smoothly over the zigzag columns on either side of the buttonhole. These grooves also keep the columns parallel as the buttonhole is stitched. There are so many large buttons that can be added as the finishing embellishment of your project.

The instructions on how to complete a manual buttonhole can be found in your sewing machine instruction manual or, on some BERNINA models, right on the sewing machine screen. In general terms, you control each step of the buttonhole as it is stitched.

• Mark the buttonhole on the fabric:

• Align the marked line with the center of Buttonhole Foot #3/3C and stitch the buttonhole following the steps shown in your machine manual:

• The finished buttonhole:

You can even use this foot to make corded buttonholes when added support and strength is desired. Try using a decorative cord and a buttonhole stitch with less fill when you desire a snazzy jazzy buttonhole.

Now - what am I going to do with the sample swatch that I made for these instructions? I think it will make a perfect dog dress for my new Snorkie puppy - 'lil Minnie - but first I have to find where she hid the sample!

About 25 years ago I was surprised to discover that my sewing machine could do a rolled hem. I must admit that I totally happened on this technique by accident - some people would call it a "happy accident" - but in reality it ws a "happy mistake." What I was attempting to do was use the zigzag stitch to finish the seams of a garment I was making. As I stitched, the intention was to have the left swing of the needle pentrate the fabric while the right swing would just stitch off the edge of the fabric. I was a novice sewer and had many thoughts and ideas about how I wanted my sewing machine to react, but I quickly learned that things do not always go as planned. My finished edge did not lay flat, as I wished, but instead rolled under as I stitched.

A few years later, while taking a guide class for my new BERNINA sewing machine, the teacher instructed the class on how to do a rolled hem with our machines. I chuckled to myself as I began to understand that what I thought was an error on my part was actually the way it was supposed to be - a rolled hem! I later learned that there is a special foot to finish off seams that would prevent my fabric from rolling as I zigzag stitched off the edge - Overlock Foot #2.

That brings me to Part 2 of my 3-part series on the many uses of Buttonhole Foot #3/3C. Achieving a nice narrow hem is difficult when done the traditional way of turning up the fabric, pressing, then stitching. It is very easy to burn your fingers while ironing, and it is sometimes tricky to get an evenly pressed edge, which results in a crooked hem - not so pretty. You can attain the result of a narrow rolled hem by using Buttonhole Foot #3/3C - not by "mistake," but rather as a "happy accident" because of the way the fabric reacts as it is zigzag stitched off the edge.

To begin - I use a rotary cutter to make sure that my fabric edge has a clean cut and is free of any threads poking out. This technique is facilitated best on lightweight fabrics like quilting cottons or batiste. You will also want to practice this, as the machine settings may vary according to the fabric, thread, and tension settings on your machine. The following is a good starting point for you to work from to achieve the best results for your project.

Attach Foot #3/3C to your machine. Select the zigzag stitch. Make the stitch wider - for the cotton fabric in the sample I set my stitch width between 4.0 and 4.5mm. Set the stitch length at 1.5mm.

Move the needle to the mid-left position. I also tighten my bobbin tension as if I were doing embroidery.

Align the fabric so that the right edge of the fabric is in the center of the middle toe of the foot. Begin with the needle penetrating the fabric on the left; as the needle swings off the fabric it will pull/roll the fabric under as it stitches. I found that a consistent moderate speed worked best.

I hvae used this technique for many different applications: to ruffle hems, to make ties for my daughter's dresses, to make fabric ribbon, and to sew the hem on a nightgown. I did use it as a seam finish - by mistake - once, but I have since purchased a serger to finish my seams. Yes, I can use my serger for a rolled hem, but there are still some times when a machine rolled hem is a better choice - and it is purely an esthetic choice. I really have fun with this technique and it always brings a smile to my face as I recall the day I learned it the hard way!