First, I start with a T roomy enough for the baby-belly, which means I'm swimming in it!

Then I pre-wash the T a couple of times to get all the shrinkage out. I hem up the bottom of the shirt and the sleeves with a 1" hem, making sure to leave a little extra length in the front of the sirt for my growing baby-belly. If you have a serger, you can use a blind hem stitch to neatly finish off the seams. If you have a sewing machine, use a stretch stitch or an elongated zig zag stitch.

I also used a technique out of the book Generation T by Megan Nicolay to add ties to the sleeves from extra fabric cut off of the bottom of the shirt. This helps to gather up some of the extra fabric from the large sleeves.

Then, the REAL FIT TRICK is adding an elastic gather in the back of the shirt - right below the bust line. This gathers in the top while leaving plenty of room everywhere else!

I'll post a step-by-step tutorial next week on how exactly to create the elastic gather in the back of the T, it's really easy!

With My Label, I could audition the fabric, decorative stitches, buttons and lace. More ease was added to the Boxy Jacket; it was then shortened in body and sleeve length. Decorative stitches and pintucks were drawn using the pencil tool and the lace was mimicked by using an embroidery design.

The buttons were the final addition. It was great to preview the look of the bedjacket before the fabric was cut. Everything that's needed was on the pattern making it easy to transfer markings, design placement and all notches.

The ribbon was embellished with decorative stitches using combi mode, connecting stitches and multi-directional placement on the 830. Using BERNINA Dual Feed, the ribbon and lace sewed down smoothly and the pintuck attachment and adjustable guide made sewing the corded pintucks effortless. Using the built-in monogram added a fashionable touch to the pocket. Since "hand" is a four-letter word in my book, even the buttons were attached using Button Sew-On Foot #18 on the machine.

I was thrilled earlier this summer to open a package and find the first copy of my new book, Flying Colors, hot off the press! It will be widely available in August 2010, published by C&T Publications. Featuring my work and that of my students, it moves beyong Flying Geese and into a whole new world of design. Now those long curvy shapes can shine with 14 new shapes to fill them, including mountains and valleys, pointing dudes, spirals, and more. All of my quilts were stitch on freezer paper foundations on my BERNINA artista 730. It sews like a dream!

I was playing with a fusible organza applique and wanted to do a satin stitch around the edge of the organza. I love the control and the choices I have for various ways to do the satin stitch on my aurora 440. I have the control to narrow or widen the zigzag stitch as I am doing the outline around the applique and control the gradual increase or decrease to have the smooth movement I am looking for. An elegant, artful look to the applique can be achieved very easily with the control I have using my BERNINA aurora 440.

I used Wonder-Under fusible web on the organza and tried a variety of different backgrounds (raw edge woven strips, piece, whole cloth, etc.). The background fabric can filter through the organza and gives another dimension to my piece. The satin stitch around the applique adds another point of interest, especially when it flows from a wider to a narrower width around an abstract leaf shape.

My inspiration for this wrap was from an article in the Fall 2009 issue of Stitch magazine, a Quilting Arts publication. I wanted to find an elegant wrap to wear to the closing banquet at BERNINA University in Orlando. You just never know if the room is going to be too hot or cold!

Instead of making the wrap following the instructions in the article (the rebel in me coming out again), I chose to use my serger.

I used a 2-thread rolled hem with YLI's new Designer 7 thread in the looper to finish all the edges.

Then, instead of sewing the elastic by sewing machine, I used a serger chain stitch and changed to a 90/14 Topstitch needle for the chain stitch. I threaded the needle with Designer 7 and put Gutermann elastic thread in the chain stitch looper.

This elastic thread is super! I tried others, but without the same success I had with the Gutermann elastic thread. It comes in four colors: black, white, red, and navy. Check with your local BERNINA store; if they don't have it in stock they can order it for you.

I was thinking the other day how fun my job really is! Yes, there are days that can be frustrating, but for the most part my job is a continuation of my hobbies -- sewing and embroidery.

And one of the best parts is being able to see ALL the beautiful designs that are created for the embroidery machine. A new collection that will be available in July at your local BERNINA dealer is "Rose of Sharon" by Sharon Pederson. This collection is a set of blanket stitch applique designs. The patterns for the shapes can be printed out from the files on the USB or CD version of the collection. Perfect every time! Part of the designs are approximately 5-1/2" squares, but the other is approximately 9-1/2" squares, so they are perfect for stitching in the BERNINA Jumbo Hoop! These designs make wonderful quilt blocks -- you just have to see them! Here are a few of the blocks included in the "Rose of Sharon" collection:

Here's a photo of a project that I created using one of the designs. I call it "The Anything Holder" because the elastic will hold virtually anything -- fabric markers, make-up brushes, pens & pencils -- just change the width between the stitching lines to accommodate larger or smaller items.

If you are interested in this project, check with your local BERNINA store to see if they are hosting an All About ME (Machine Embroidery) program. "The Anything Holder" is featured in the August All About ME program, which will show you how to create blanket stitch applique by embroidery machine. Attendees also receive instructions for creating this project, as well as many others.

Handmade notecards are the perfect personal touch. I've created some of my own by first painting a folded piece of watercolor paint paper (or card stock) with metallic paints just smeared on the front, Let dry. Cut to a 5" x 7" card.

I chose a decorative stitch from my artista 730 menu, loaded YLI Candlelight metallic cord into the adjusted bobbin case, YLI Wonder Invisible thread in the needle, and stitched my design about 1" from the lower edge of the card. Remember to stitch with the right side down, as the pretty thread is located in the bobbin.

Use a decorative rotary cutting blade to make a fancy edge along the lower edge of the card. And Voila! You have personally-made notecards.

I recently enjoyed seeing some darling nieces at a family gathering whose ages ranged from infant to pre-teen. Kay Hickman's Sewing Room blog using the Zenspirations embroidery collection proved to be the perfect idea for my next project. My BERNINA Embroidery Software 6 easily took me from "idea" to "stitch-ready" in about 30 minutes. Starting with a new page in the software, I inserted each letter in my quilt, enlarging the large 6" L by 20% using the Rescale tool. The remaining letters were the smaller 3" letters in the collection, and I reduced ROOM to 70% in the Object Properties box.

With just a couple of clicks of the Open Objects tool, I quickly digitized the apostrophe for Lilly's name. All I had to do was recolor it and move it into position.

I wanted to stitch the large design in the new BERNINA 830 Jumbo Hoop, and I used the Multi-Hooping feature of the software to split the design into two pieces and add registration points for a precise stitch-out of my embroidery.

I consider myself a beginner when it comes to machine quilting. The BERNINA Stitch Regulator kept my stitch length consistent for my free-motion quilting between the letters. The ever-practical Triple Straight and Triple Zigzag stitches frame the quilt with a simple but pronounced border.

With creative embroidery collections, and fantastic BERNINA software and embroidery machines, it's never been easier to create beautiful, personal gifts for family and friends.

The IMAGINE in the center panel was hooped in the Jumbo Hoop, and the side panels were done in the Large Oval Hoop. All three were embroidered on the BERNINA 830. All of the designs were reduced in size to fit, and the density was reduced by about 20% as well. You've gotta love the on-screen editing capabilities of the BERNINA 830!

The freeform fiber was a soft variegated yarn, couched using Open Embroidery Foot #20, a zigzag stitch, and variegated King Tut cotton thread.

I'm really new to embroidery and am still feeling my way through the woods since "adopting" my BERNINA 830 in January, but I've become a jean jacket junkie! Here's another Jumbo Hooped design - this one from Urban Threads - that was my first attempt at embroidery on denim. The thrift stores have to watch out for me now - I love the idea of upcycling!

Do you remember when the first embroidery machines were introduced? How excited we all were to have a machine that sewed professional-looking embroidery all by itself? And we could even embroider baseball caps with a special hoop!

Do you remember the computer you had when you saw your first embroidery machine? Windows 3.0? Windows 95? Floppy disks! Just think about how much more sophisticated computers are just 15 years later - netbooks, Windows 7, wireless Internet - who could have imagined!

Just as with computers, today's embroidery machines are sooooo much different from the first ones! Early improvements included a free-arm for stitching onesies and pant legs, a sensor that stops the machine if the thread breaks, thread color information right on the embroidery screen, and sliding hoops for increasing the area that could be stitched with just a 4" x 4" embroidery field. Embroidery software for customizing designs. And then digitizing software for creating them from scratch! The latest embroidery machines - embroidery computers, really - do everything except make coffee!

If you have one of the new BERNINA 830s you know how wonderful it is to sew on the latest and greatest embroidery system. One of my favorite features: the HUGE Jumbo embroidery hoop - I can stitch 40 x 26 cm (that's more than 10" x 15.5"!) and cover entire sections of jackets and other garments without rehooping or changing the hoop position.

Another thing I love about the BERNINA 830 is the ability to take regular sewing machine stitches into the embroidery computer. I love to cover fabric pieces with decorative stitches, but sewing all those rows is time-consuming and more than a little boring. Now all I have to do is select my stitches from the many 100s available, use my finger or stylus to drop and drag them around the screen until I like the arrangment (I don't even have to program directional stitches - they're automatic!)...

... send them to the "embroidery side" of the BERNINA 830...

... then use Endless Embroidery to multiply them and fill the entire Jumbo hoop. How cool is that?!

Nancy Bednar - designer, teacher, and author - did just that for the back panel of her "Trio" jacket (Project Sewing Workshop ).

What are some of your favorite embroidery features? Leave a comment and let us know what you love about your embroidery machine. (Click on the little blue "Comments" link at the end of this post, then fill in the Comment box.) In 10 days we'll select a winner at random from all the comments we receive, so be sure to leave your comment before midnight (Eastern time) Friday night, June 18, 2010. June 29, 2010. The winner will receive a box of goodies from BERNINA of America, OESD, Brewer, and Benartex. Sorry, we can only ship to addresses in the USA, but we hope our out-of-country friends will still share their favorite features with us.

Ed. Congratulations to Susanne Brisach, winner of our Favorite Embroidery Feature Contest! Susanne will receive a pack of goodies in the mail next week. Thank you to everyone that entered and left a comment!

Today I learned about feet. I didn't know that there were special feet on a sewing machine that help make sewing easier. The first new foot I tried out was the #10 foot. (Ed. BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10.) Nana says it it her favorite. I needed to do a lot of edging on the nightgown I am making and I was afraid I would not be able to sew a line as straight as I should. It is hard to keep my stitching straight.

Nana showed me how to take off the regular foot and put on the #10 foot. It really was easy. She only had to show me one time and then I could do it by myself after that. All I had to do was keep the metal "thingy"in the middle of the foot right in the middle of my seam and move the needle to the left as far as it would go. They call that "stitch in the ditch," which is a funny name but it is easy to remember. I couldn't believe it when I finished because the line was perfectly straight. Now I am curious about what all the other feet in Nana's box are for. I finished my nightgown and the hat to go with it and will come to Nana's after school tomorrow and hope I can finish the bathrobe.

Maybe one reason little kids have trouble sewing is that they get bored quickly. So when I get bored I take a break and get a snack or I get into my fun sewing basket and drape on my Nana's dress form. I love to design fancy dresses from leftover fabric.

I think more kids should learn to sew.

Signed, "The Fashionista," Tori

PS - I finished my bathrobe!

Ed: Linda Stewart is a couture fashion designer, member of the American Sewing Guild, and proud grandmother of Tori, age 7.

Often when I demonstrate my thread calligraphy technique I set my BERNINA aurora 440 using a little trick. This little trick can be used any time you are working with a wide zigzag stitch and want to backstitch, or anchor your stitching line using a narrower zigzag stitch.

The Trout

So here is the trick: I set my #2 zigzag stitch at the widest width I want (typically 5.5mm) and I set my #1 straight stitch to do a zigzag by using my zigzag width buttons to select a 2.5mm zigzag stitch.

Stitch #1

Stitch #2

Stitch Width: I do my thread calligraphy free motion, so my feed dogs are dropped and I am in control of moving the fabric to achieve the satin stitch length I desire. If you have your feed dogs up, you will also need to set the length of your stitch for the wider and narrower zigzag.

When I do my thread calligraphy I like to start with a narrow zigzag (adjusted stitch #1) and after I make a few stitches I can go to the wider zigzag stitch just by pressing the #2 button. Otherwise I'd have to increase and decrease the width setting everytime I wanted to change stitches.

If you look closely you can see the narrow zigzag on top of the wide zigzag.

I have found this same procedure works when I am doing applique around a piece. I like the convenience of toggling back and forth between my preset widths using the #1 and #2 buttons instead of constantly moving the arrow up or down buttons to get the wider and narrower zigzags. Try this! You may find other ways to use this little trick!

Although I enjoy using my serger, I also love when my favorite BERNINA can multi-task! Here's how I make velvet roses for my pillows:

• Using an overlock stitch and Overlock Foot #2, finish the long doubled edge of a strip of cotton velvet.

• Using Ruffler #86, Gathering Foot #16, or heavy bobbin thread and a long stitch, gather the opposite edge.

• Roll into velvet roses for a quick and easy addition to handmade pillows.

These can also be made into pins or embellishments for headbands, purses, or anything you choose to create!

Here's a tee shirt idea which can be done using the tunic or default length of the Tee Shirt in My Label 3D Fashion Pattern Software.

Altering Style Properties: Decide on the length for your ruched tee shirt; change the Style Properties for the My Label T-Shirt so that the finished length from center back equals this amount. I used 33.5" for the finished length in the sample shown here.

Add ease at the hips by increasing the hip circumference Style Property by 1.5". If you wish to scoop the neckline, draw a new neckline using the Pencil tool. On the sample I scooped the neckline 1" at center front and 1/2" at the shoulder seams. If you change the neckline of the tee shirt front, make a corresponding change to the back neckline so the shoulder seams will sew together properly.

Use the Pencil tool to draw a seam on the left side of the tee shirt front. Draw this line about 1" from the left neck/shoulder seam point to the hem, parallel to the grainline.

You may shorten the sleeve in Style Properies if desired. The sleeve in the sample was shortened to 18".

Print the pattern pieces.

Preparing the Pattern Pieces: If you scooped the neckline, cut the pattern along the new neckline seam on both the front and the back pattern pieces. Cut along the vertical seam line to split the front into two pieces. Add a seam allowance to the right front, then draw a facing for the right front by tracing the shoulder seam, the seam allowance, and the hemline. Make the facing 1 3/4" wide.

Make a fold-back facing for the left front. Extend the edge of the left front 2 1/4"; this will allow for a 3/4" underlap and a 1 1/2" facing. Tape a piece of tissue paper to the left front to draw this extension. Mark the underlap line. Fold the facing to the wrong side of the pattern along the underlap line. While it is folded, cut along the pattern neckline to properly shape the facing so that it exactly matches the left front.

Using a ruler, draw eight slash lines from the vertical seamline upwards on the right front pattern piece. Begin the slash lines about 8" from the shoulder and end them about 11 1/2" from the hem. The lines do not have to be parallel, but they should be equidistant at the vertical edge. On the sample the slash lines were placed 1 3/4" apart. (The blue arrow indicates the cutting direction for the next step.)

Cut along the slash lines from the vertical seam to the stitching line of the right front; this point will be used as a pivot point. Place tissue paper under the pattern and tape the split pattern to the tissue so that it is flat and the distance between the ends of the slashed lines measures 1 1/2". You will need to create a pleat in the seam allowance at the opposite side of the slashes. Mark the top and bottom edges of each of the tucks.

Fold the slash lines from the bottom line to the top line, matching the original cut lines. Pin in place. While they are folded, cut across the cutting lines. This will establish the correct shape of the seamline.

Constructing the Top: Cut the pattern pieces from knit fabric. Be sure to mark the top and bottom edges of each of the tucks.

Fold the tucks in the right front by matching the lower marks to the upper marks. Baste in place. Attach the facing, then understitch the seam. Fold the facing along the foldline of the left front and press in place.

With both pieces right side up, lay the right front over the left front, matching the original vertical cut lines. Stitch in place through all layers, creating a faux placket. Sew two buttons between each set of tucks and sew four buttons in the tucked area. Eighteen 1/2" buttons were used on the sample.

Continue to construct your ruched top according to the T-Shirt directions in the My Label software. If changes were made to the original neckline, cut a new bias neckline strip, making the length of the strip 3/4 the measurement of the new neckline.

I LOVE the new Zenspirations Embroidery Collection! So what a better use than to make a Sewing Room Wall-Hanging for my sewing room - just in case anybody had any doubts about what kind of room it was! The designs from Zenspirations are perfect for this because not only are they neat-looking, but they are quicker to sew! Since I am always looking for places to stick a few pins when I am ironing, I decided to hang it above the ironing board and to add a couple of "pin cushions." The fabric I used was from Benartex's Modern Mix Collection - another favorite of mine! The florals made great pre-made shapes for the pin cushions.

I used the BERNINA Mega Hoop and my artista 730 to stitch the lettering. Although you could certainly add the letters in one at a time directly on the machine, I chose to use the BERNINA Embroidery Software because I knew that I wanted to size the letters to fit into the hoop, and it would be quicker in the software. There are two sizes of letters in the collection - the large set is about 6" tall and the small set is about 3" tall. The large "S" and the small set "ewing" were both scaled down to approximately 88% of their original size so that they would fit in the hoop. "Room" was scaled down about 67%. If you are going to use the machine to split the designs (which is easiest if your machine has that capability), be sure that you are working with the artista 400 x 150 Mega - Auto Split Machines hoop so that the machine itself can do the splitting of the design.

Using the Mega Hoop is similar to useing other hoops. You will mark the horizontal and vertical center lines of the design on the fabric and hoop the stabilizer and fabric as one. The Mega Hoop has TWO set screws - be sure to loosen both. Place the top portion of the inner ring of the hoop inside the upper portion of the bottom ring. Walk the edges of the inner ring in, Tupperware style, and the lower portion should fit in easily. Tighten BOTH set screws and attach the hoop to the machine. Use the clips that came with the hoop to further secure the fabric. Insert one portion of the clip into one of the notches in the inner ring of the hoop and the other in the corresponding notch of the outer ring (this notch will be covered by the fabric, but you should be able to feel when it is in position).

If you have not used a Mega Hoop it is a good idea to play with the hoop before starting the design. There are three sets of notches on the Mega Hoop. Squeeze the release handles on the bracket and move it slightly. You will find that the bracket attachment will move very easily. Continue to slowly move the bracket attachment without squeezing the release handles until you reach another position. At that time you will hear an audible click. When the bracket attachment is centered over the upper set of notches you are at the Upper Position. When the bracket attachment is centered over the center set of notches you are at the Middle (2) Position. When the bracket attachment is centered over the lower set of notches the hoop is in the Lower (3) Position.

One more thing to look out for... When the hoop moves to a new position, you will find that there will be excess needle thread due to the movement of the hoop.

When you are ready to start stitching at that spot, pull the needle thread back up EVER SO GENTLY to get rid of the excess thread. DO NOT PULL too much or you will pull the bobbin thread up to the top, which you don't want to do.

Position the bracket in the middle position of the Mega Hoop and use the machine's Edit features to run a check of the design. I find that this is CRUCIAL when stitching Mega Hoop designs because I want to watch the front and back of my hoop as it moves through its positions to make sure I have allowed plenty of room between the machine and the wall, and that my chair is not in the way of the front. (You may be prompted to move the hoop to various positions - see instructions below.)

Attach the Mega Hoop to the machine and press the Start button. Your machine will give you a message: Lift the presser foot and reposition to Upper (1) position. Ensure that the notch snaps in. Press OK to start hoop detection. Squeeze the handles of the bracket and move the bracket just until the bracket can move freely. Move the hoop to the upper position and listen for the click. I like to jiggle the hoop slightly to ensure that the latch is firmly engaged. You will then get another message: The embroidery module has detected the MegaHoop Upper (1) position. Recheck that the notch is firmly in position (the hoop does not move). Press OK to confirm. (If you should get a message that the hoop position has NOT been detected, then re-position the hoop once more.) Continue stitching the design, moving the hoop to the properposition whenever you are prompted.

You will find that the design will stitch perfectly!

The newest premier design collection from OESD is a contemporary alphabet that has an Asian flair to it. Called Zenspirations, this collection has two letter and number sizes (approximately 3" and 6") plus round and square frame styles. These very graphic images look great as wall art, on pillows, and as monograms. Simple to stitch, these unique letters can really hep you make a statement with your embroidery. CLICK HERE for directions to make this 2-color piece of contemporary wall art.

You know it is a good thing that most fabric doesn't have a shelf life!

I completed a quilt for my dad for Christmas. It was from a fabric that I re-discovered in my stash from a few years back... that is why I feel it is always a good idea to buy a little more than you think you're going to need - it just may take a while to finish your project!

The project was easy to execute and it was a great way to use a panel, a repeating stripe, and my embroidery machine. The panel prints were cut and raw edge appliqued onto the topper. The center snowflake was appliqued with the blanket stitch. The repeating stripes were cut apart and used as a border - a different stripe was used for the upper and lower borders than for the right and left borders. Embroidered snowflakes were placed in each corner of the quilt. (Note: The picture only shows half of the quilt.)

I made friends once again with the BERNINA Stitch Regulator and the project reminded me again or how much I enjoy free-motion stitching because I don't have to get that special rhythm down of how fast to move the fabric and how much to press on the foot control. For those of you who have never tried it, I would suggest that you go to your local BERNINA store and ask for a trial run. It really does make free-motion stitching fun!

I used a variation on the Chole Hem technique to finish the edges of the ruffle at the front of this linen blouse. The unfinished edge was was then stitched into the placket at the center front. This is a beautiful hem option for delicate, fine fabrics. I stitched my blouse on the new 8 Series BERNINA 820, but this technique can be stitched on nearly any BERNINA sewing machine.

Chloe Edge:

• Press 1/2" under along one long edge.
• Select zigzag stitch #2; adjust stitch length = 0.85mm and stitch width = 1.5mm.

• Move the needle position 1 step left of center and attach Edgestitch Foot #10/10C to the machine.
• Guide the folded edge next to the blade and stitch the narrow zigzag.

• Trim close to the stitching using applique scissors.

Off-the-Edge Stitching:

• Select a stitch to fall off the edge, such as this one that looks like stacked columns.

• Insert a Topstitch needle and thread the machine with heavy thread - such as Sulky 12 weight cotton thread - in the needle and bobbin.
• Place several layers of OESD AquaMesh stabilizer under the edge of the fabric.
• Stitch, letting the stitche fall off the edge.

• Trim stabilizer about 1/4" from the stitching, then rinse away the remaining stablizer.

Today I finally got to sew. I learned a lot of new things. One thing I learned that Nana says every good sewer needs to know is the "Frog Stitch." You know - "ripit, ripit." I didn't stay in the seam allowance very well, so I just learned how to do the "Frog Stitch."

Another thing I learned was how to clean around the bobbin case. The fabric I'm using is called "Minkee" and it has a lot of fuzz. The fuzz gets down in the bobbin area and can mess up the stitches. So Nana taught me how to use the little brush that came with the sewing machine.. I took out the bobbin and cleaned all the fuzz out, then put a little oil on to make the machine run smoother.

When I was 5 I used to think that to sew all you had to do was turn on the sewing machine and push the pedal. But I'm learning that there is a lot more to it than that. In my next blog I should have pictures of my ASG Challenge garment and me in it!

Signed, "the Fashionista" Tori

Ed. You can read about Tori's previous adventures HERE and HERE. Linda Stewart, Tori's Nana, is a couture fashion designer and a member of the American Sewing Guild.

Calling all 8 Series owners! Don't miss the chance to learn about yourBERNINA 820 or 830 with our Virtual 8 Series Mastery Classes, taught exclusively at participating BERNINA stores. We got off to a great start this week, and hope you can join us for the rest of the series! Check to see if a BERNINA store in your area is hosting this live series in their store. Presented by BERNINA Educators, the virtual classes will walk you through the basics as well as the new features of these great machines. Tuesdays at 1:00 pm, CDT - May 4, 11, 18, 25, June 1, 8 and 15.

8 Series Machine Mastery Live Topics:

• May 4 - Meet the Machines
• May 11 - Care & Feeding for Precision Preformance (presented by Hans Herzog)
• May 18 - In Stitches
• May 25 - Smooth Operations - BERNINA Stitch Regulator, BERNINA Dual Feed, and More
• June 1 - Not Directionally Challenged (BERNINA 830 Only)
• June 8 - Intro to Embroidery (BERNINA 830 Only)
• June 15 - Endless Love and More (BERNINA 830 Only)

When you realize that your Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/3B/3C will not create a buttonhole large enough for your oversize button - that is when you need to take out Buttonhole Foot #3/3C. The two grooves underneath the foot allow the fabric to feed smoothly over the zigzag columns on either side of the buttonhole. These grooves also keep the columns parallel as the buttonhole is stitched. There are so many large buttons that can be added as the finishing embellishment of your project.

The instructions on how to complete a manual buttonhole can be found in your sewing machine instruction manual or, on some BERNINA models, right on the sewing machine screen. In general terms, you control each step of the buttonhole as it is stitched.

• Mark the buttonhole on the fabric:

• Align the marked line with the center of Buttonhole Foot #3/3C and stitch the buttonhole following the steps shown in your machine manual:

• The finished buttonhole:

You can even use this foot to make corded buttonholes when added support and strength is desired. Try using a decorative cord and a buttonhole stitch with less fill when you desire a snazzy jazzy buttonhole.

Now - what am I going to do with the sample swatch that I made for these instructions? I think it will make a perfect dog dress for my new Snorkie puppy - 'lil Minnie - but first I have to find where she hid the sample!

Another fabulous week spent at the Quilting Arts TV shoot in Cleveland, Ohio! The Green Room was always buzzing with excitement and anticipation as the talented array of artists arrived to prepare for their time in front of the camera. Taping was done for Series 600 which will air at the end of June. Just look at some of the names who joined the fun: Kathy Mack, Liz Kettle, Lindsay Mason, Karen Fricke, Diane Nunez, Mary Hettmansperger, Terry Grant, Terry White, Jeanie Sumrall-Ajero, Linda McGehee, Luana and Sophie Rubin, Eric Drexler, and the list goes on and on with no offense to those names not mentioned! Even yours truly did a fun project using the BERNINA 830.

Below: Terry Grant prepping for her taping session.

Below: Inspiration from Diane Nunez.

It has been said that children and animals always upstage everyone else and Sophie Rubin, Luana's daughter, was the perfect example! She is a 7-year-old protegee who has a knack for stealing your heart while keeping you in stitches - no pun intended! - when she talks about her quilting. She personalized her bernette 46 with a little of Mom's help and couldn't be prouder! One of her accomplishments using her bernette 46 was creating quilts for the Haiti earthquake victims and she was more than happy to tell us all about it! BTW, she doesn't like to do "reverse sewing" either but her seam ripper is her friend!

If I could only siphon a thimble-full of creativity from the incredible talent that passes through the studio doors I would be ready to tackle anything! So I encourage everyone to watch for the upcoming episodes of Quilting Arts TV Series 600 by going to www.quiltingartstv.com, clicking on QA TV > Station Finder and enter your location to view the listings. Even if you aren't privy to the PBS channels you can still register to download the projects shown on TV. While you are on the site, be sure to click on QA Magazine > Events & News > BERNINA "Stitch This" Challenge to read about how your own creativity could win you a new aurora 440QE for your own sewing room.

Huge kudos to Pokey Bolton and her talented team for always finding unique and enticing ways to keep our creative juices flowing!

This is a great way to make a quick and easy sleeve to hang your quilts by! If you're a quilter, this is a great reason to dust off your serger or invest in a new one.

I like to purchase curtain rods to hang my finished quilts on. The decorative ends that you can get for curtain rods are the finishing touch to your quilt, just like jewelry is to your outfits, or buttons to your garments.

All you need to do is cut a strip of fabric for your quilt sleeve (you can piece the strip if you need to):

• Measure the width of the finished quilt and add 1"; this will give you the length of the strip with a 1/2" turn-under at each end. If you want to turn under more than 1/2", add more to the length.
• Determine the width of the strip, allowing adequate room for the curtain rod (or whatever you are going to use to hold the quilt up). I cut mine 2 1/2" wide.

Set your serger for a rolled hem stitch. It can be either a 2-thread or 3-thread rolled edge; the choice is up to you. Don't you just love having the opportunity to make choices?

I like to use the same thread that I used to quilt my quilt. I place this in the upper looper for a 3-thread rolled hem, or in the lower looper for a 2-thread rolled hem. For this quilt I used Oliver Twist variegated thread.

Turn under 1/2" (or more, if you added length) at each short end of the strip. Roll hem both long edges, lining up the edge of the strip with the edge of the serger stitch plate. This makes a nice hemmed edge.

Using the same thread and a hand-sewing needle, slip stitch the long top edge of the strip to the quilt.

Place the quilt face down, with the strip flat. Slide the lower edge of the strip toward the top of the quilt, creating a "tunnel" for the curtain rod to go through. Whip stitch this edge in place.

A few years later, while taking a guide class for my new BERNINA sewing machine, the teacher instructed the class on how to do a rolled hem with our machines. I chuckled to myself as I began to understand that what I thought was an error on my part was actually the way it was supposed to be - a rolled hem! I later learned that there is a special foot to finish off seams that would prevent my fabric from rolling as I zigzag stitched off the edge - Overlock Foot #2.

That brings me to Part 2 of my 3-part series on the many uses of Buttonhole Foot #3/3C. Achieving a nice narrow hem is difficult when done the traditional way of turning up the fabric, pressing, then stitching. It is very easy to burn your fingers while ironing, and it is sometimes tricky to get an evenly pressed edge, which results in a crooked hem - not so pretty. You can attain the result of a narrow rolled hem by using Buttonhole Foot #3/3C - not by "mistake," but rather as a "happy accident" because of the way the fabric reacts as it is zigzag stitched off the edge.

To begin - I use a rotary cutter to make sure that my fabric edge has a clean cut and is free of any threads poking out. This technique is facilitated best on lightweight fabrics like quilting cottons or batiste. You will also want to practice this, as the machine settings may vary according to the fabric, thread, and tension settings on your machine. The following is a good starting point for you to work from to achieve the best results for your project.

Attach Foot #3/3C to your machine. Select the zigzag stitch. Make the stitch wider - for the cotton fabric in the sample I set my stitch width between 4.0 and 4.5mm. Set the stitch length at 1.5mm.

Move the needle to the mid-left position. I also tighten my bobbin tension as if I were doing embroidery.

Align the fabric so that the right edge of the fabric is in the center of the middle toe of the foot. Begin with the needle penetrating the fabric on the left; as the needle swings off the fabric it will pull/roll the fabric under as it stitches. I found that a consistent moderate speed worked best.

I hvae used this technique for many different applications: to ruffle hems, to make ties for my daughter's dresses, to make fabric ribbon, and to sew the hem on a nightgown. I did use it as a seam finish - by mistake - once, but I have since purchased a serger to finish my seams. Yes, I can use my serger for a rolled hem, but there are still some times when a machine rolled hem is a better choice - and it is purely an esthetic choice. I really have fun with this technique and it always brings a smile to my face as I recall the day I learned it the hard way!

Kristy Howard won for Most Creative Use of Stitching and Trim, and received a BERNINA activa 220 sewing machine provided by Barnes Sewing Center, plus BERNINA's red collectors book, and a 50 spool set of Coats & Clark thread. Kristy also won the People's Choice Award.

For more photos and comments on the show visit the Fashion School Directors Blog and Bernina of America's website.