Hemstitching & Wing Needles

One of the questions I'm frequently asked is how to create hemstitching and other fancywork stitching. It's much easier than most folks think - all you need is a Wing needle and a machine with at least a zigzag stitch. A Wing needle has metal flanges - "wings" - extending to the right and left of the needle. When the needle goes through the fabric, the wings push the yarns of the fabric to the sides, creating holes. The more often the needle goes through the same hole, the more pronounced the opening is. Most machines have decorative stitches that can be used to create even more intricate decorative effects - blanket stitch, honeycomb, stars - even stitches designed to produce the look of purchased entredeux. The sample below is part of a Fancywork Handkerchief by Louise Baird.

laura baird hanky

Wing needles can be used with embroidery, too. The stitching shown here forms the background for a monogram in Nina McVeigh's Monogrammed Dresser Scarf. This project also has great instructions for stitching a mitered drawn threadwork hem.

Wing needle stitching is a quick and easy embellishment for purchased items - linen and/or cotton shirts, tablecloths & napkins - anywhere you want a subtle decorative touch. For additional tips on hemstitching, see the article I wrote for the Basic Training section of www.berninausa.com.


16 Comments

Serena December 20 2007 @ 12:45 pm

Beautiful!!

Melanie January 22 2008 @ 3:53 pm

Where do you buy this wing needle and does it work for hemstitching the edge of a blanket so you can crochet the blanet?

jo January 22 2008 @ 6:13 pm

Hi Melanie - You can purchase Wing needles at most sewing shops; the two brands I use are BERNINA and Schmetz. Yes, they're great for hemstitching the edges of a blanket as a base for a crocheted edge! I also like to use them to add hemstitched accents to purchased linen shirts; no one has to know I didn't make the whole shirt myself!

Valerie Correa October 15 2008 @ 11:44 am

Thanks God I found this page. I wanted to find a hemstitch machine and what i found is high prices and old-old-old machines. i was frustrated because I like to crochet around baby blankets but sometimes is kind of tiresome or difficult to do the holes in the fabric. And now i found your page !!!!!!!! OMG I am going out to buy this wing needles and try it myself. Thanks !!!!!!

Jennifer Howell February 19 2009 @ 9:03 am

Where can I find a wing needle that I can us on my sewing machine.

Hi Jennifer - Most sewing stores will have Wing needles along with many other types of needles. Just make sure your machine can use wing needles; straight stitch only machines may not have a large enough needle opening. If you have a zigzag machine you shouldn't have any trouble. The "wings" of the needle push the yarns of the fabric out to the sides; the stitches hold the holes open to create the lacy effect of heirloom stitching. Jo

joanie February 20 2009 @ 3:45 pm

I have used the larges of the wing needles size 19 and it still doesnt make the holes big enough to crochet around baby blankets. i have to push the smallest crochet hook and it blisters my fingers by the time i get around it. Also, what type of thread can be used that is invisible. I know of someone that has a hemstich old machine that doesnt even compare to doing it yourself. what do you suggest? thank you

Terilyn February 26 2009 @ 11:08 am

I want to do a crocheted edge around a baby blanket for my sister...and I'd love to do the hemstitching on my own machine, but I've never tried it. (In the past I've struggled with making the holes by hand with my crocket hook as I work...not easy.) I have a Bernina 830 from the late 70's/early 80's. Will a wing needle work on that type of machine, and if so, can I order it through the Bernina website? Maybe I can even find it at Joann's if it will work on my particular sewing machine.
Thank you!

Hi Terilyn - Yes, you can use a Wing needle on your old 830. You can't order it through the website (Bernina doesn't have an online store) but you should be able to find one at your local sewing shop. Jo

Terilyn February 27 2009 @ 10:26 am

Thanks, Jo--I appreciate your quick response!
Terilyn

Sarai D March 22 2009 @ 12:13 am

Hi. What stitch would you use on a Bernina Aurora 430 or Artista 640 to make the entredeux stitch when attaching lace to an outfit? I have an old Pfaff and am ready to purchase a new machine (and not spend to great a fortune), but want to be sure it can do entredeux.
Thanks so much!!!

Hi Sarai - All of the auroras and artistas have an entredeux stitch, plus ladder stitch, picot stitches, and many other heirloom stitches. Take along some fabric when you go to the Bernina store and try them out with a Wing needle to see which one you prefer. Jo

Ellen May 06 2009 @ 9:31 am

This article is great. I managed to find the Fancywork Handkerchief through the search engine, but I cannot find your additional tips on hemstitching and your basic training article.

Do you have updated URLs?

Thank you!

Dottye May 31 2009 @ 5:33 pm

I inherited my mother's Bernina 930 and want to know where I can find "extra" presser feet, i.e. plastic open embroidery foot, pin tuck foot, hemming foot, etc. Also, I have the manual, but it doesn't mention heirloom sewing and I am wondering what built in stitches in the 930 will work with the wing needle technique.

Hi Dottye - The Bernina 930 uses the same presser feet as the current model 1008, all of which are available from your local Bernina store. These accessories are packaged in red with a white Bernina logo and have a black number on the shank; those for the new models are packed in white with a red logo and have a red number on the shank. To see all the presser feet available go to www.berninausa.com and click on Accessories.

For most of your heirloom sewing you'll use a zigzag stitch; the 930 doesn't have an entredeux stitch, but you can get a similar effect using a triple zigzag or honeycomb stitch with a Wing needle. The 930 also has several decorative satin stitches which are lovely when stitched tone-on-tone for insertions and edgings. For more information on heirloom stitching with your Bernina see www.berninausa.com > Learn It > Sewing Classes > Bastic Training In Sewing > Heirloom Basics. Jo

darla October 28 2009 @ 9:59 pm

Do you use a straight stitch or a zig zag stitch with the wing needle to make an opening to crochet in?

Hi Darla - I usually use a star/daisy or entredeux stitch with a Wing needle, but there are a number of other stitches that work as well. To see a variety of different stitches and the resulting "holes," visit www.berninausa.com > Make It > Projects, then scroll down the page to Fancywork Handkerchief. This project uses a number of different stitches with Wing needles to produce different stitch patterns. Jo

Nancy November 28 2009 @ 1:35 pm

Thank you ladies. I have been trying to figure out how my great grandmother attached her beautiful crochet work to the linens that I inherited. My search lead me here where I got the best information for my situation.
I have yards of lace that my grandmother and great grandmother made and attached to linens.The linen is old and torn or stained but the lace is still good. I can now attach the antique lace to new linens.
I will let you know how it goes.

Lisa Chitwood December 17 2009 @ 8:15 pm

Hi,
I have a Sears Kenmore machine Model 19001. I have lots of decorative stitches.I do lots of smocked stuff.I would like to figure out how to attach french lace to batiste fabric with a wing needle like hemstitching.I think I have figured out which stitch I need to use on my machine.I think it is the blanket stitch.But do I need, and if I do what kind of stabilizer do I need to use? I tried to use tear away stabilizer but that just messed things up.Everything looked really pretty till I removed the stabilizer then it just distorted everything.Also what is the best thread to use when doing this technique? Thanks Lisa

Hi Lisa - I don't usually use any stabilizer when I'm doing French Heirloom Stitching, but I almost always starch my fabric. Laces, too, if they need it. If you do need a stabilizer, use a very, very thin one that tears easily so that it won't distort the stitches, such as Stitch & Ditch.

I use Mettler 60 weight Cotton Embroidery Thread for heirloom sewing, but any very fine, strong cotton thread will work. Look for long-staple or Egyptian cotton, in 60 or 80 weight. And use a fine needle, such as a 60 or 70 Sharp.

For more information on French Heirloom Sewing, see www.berninausa.com > Learn It > Fashion Sewing > Heirloom Basics. Also see Make It > Projects > Fancywork Handkerchief. Jo

Lesley J. Fleay December 23 2009 @ 12:49 am

Hi, I am interested if you know which stitch to use when doing fine edge for crocheting using a Elna Dive and winged needle. Thanks Lez.

Hi Leslie - Sorry, I don't know the stitches on Elna machines, but you probably have something called a blanket stitch or a picot stitch. That, combined with a Wing needle, should create holes for crocheting. Jo

Noeline Smith February 22 2010 @ 3:57 am

I think this is a wonderful helpful site, I learnt a lot today by reading everybody's comments and your answers, many thanks ,very grateful.
Sincerely Noeline Smith in Australia.


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