My inspiration for this wrap was from an article in the Fall 2009 issue of Stitch magazine, a Quilting Arts publication. I wanted to find an elegant wrap to wear to the closing banquet at BERNINA University in Orlando. You just never know if the room is going to be too hot or cold!

Instead of making the wrap following the instructions in the article (the rebel in me coming out again), I chose to use my serger.

I used a 2-thread rolled hem with YLI's new Designer 7 thread in the looper to finish all the edges.

Then, instead of sewing the elastic by sewing machine, I used a serger chain stitch and changed to a 90/14 Topstitch needle for the chain stitch. I threaded the needle with Designer 7 and put Gutermann elastic thread in the chain stitch looper.

This elastic thread is super! I tried others, but without the same success I had with the Gutermann elastic thread. It comes in four colors: black, white, red, and navy. Check with your local BERNINA store; if they don't have it in stock they can order it for you.

I always change my kitchen and dining area for whatever the holiday is -- they've been dressed in patriotic red, white, and blue since the first of June in honor of Flag Day and for the 4th of July.

Independence Day is this weekend, but it's not too late to make some fast and easy placemats for your 4th of July get-together! Get out your serger and gather together red, white, and blue fabrics and serger threads. Cut fabric strips of various widths. Thread your serger for a wide 2- or 3-thread flatlock; I used Maxi-Lock Swirls in Rocket Pop #53-M62 in the looper to create the multi-colored stitching. Flatlock the strips together as shown, then serge around the outer edges. For more sturdy placemats, sandwich a piece of flannel between the pieced top and a backing before serging around the outside edges.

I love wearing long "float-y" skirts in the summer; they keep me cool and are fun to match up with flip flops. When I wear them it reminds me of walking on the beach with the wind blowing, and breathing in the smell of the ocean. But I have a problem with them, as they are always too long for me! So, if you happen to be on the short side, like me, you can use your BERNINA serger to create a cute ensemble in a "short" time.

Supplies

• Knit top
• Long skirt
• Rotary cutter, mat, and ruler
• Embroider scissors
• Marking pencil
• 2-3 cones of serger thread
• 2-thread adapter (optional)
• Dritz Home Curtain Grommets - pack of twelve 3/8" grommets in champagne

Instructions

Set your serger for a two- or three-thread rolled edge and thread accordingly.

Mark the amount of skirt to be cut off. Instead of cutting it off with scissors, let the serger do it for you as you roll hem the edge! How cool is that?! You're all finished with the skirt!

Roll hem both long edges and short ends of the strip you cut off the skirt. (You may need to adjust the width of the strip depending on how much you needed to cut off the skirt.) My strip was about 2" wide.

Roll hem the strip a second time - over the first rolled edge - to create a heavier look.

Find the center front and back of the t-shirt neck band; mark it with a fabric marking pen/pencil.

Measure the width of the neck band, divide in half, and mark it with the fabric marking pen/pencil.

Place the grommet template on top of the neck band.

Transfer the marks from the template to the neck band with the marking pen/pencil.

Using embroidery scissors, cut the circle out of the neck band.

The grommets have two parts: The piece with the prongs goes to the wrong side of the top; the smooth side goes on the right side of the top.

Place the pronged grommet piece into the cut hole, taking care to catch all of the raw edges under the grommet parts. Place the prong side of the grommet underneath the smooth part of the grommet.

Push together; you will feel it snap when the pieces join. Repeat for the rest of the grommets along the neck edge, spacing them evenly around the opening, about 2" apart.

Starting at the center back, weave the roll-hemmed strip in and out of the grommets. Tie ends in a bow. I chose to have the fabric strip bow at the right side front, you can place it in the center or on the left side as desired.

This is a great way to make a quick and easy sleeve to hang your quilts by! If you're a quilter, this is a great reason to dust off your serger or invest in a new one.

I like to purchase curtain rods to hang my finished quilts on. The decorative ends that you can get for curtain rods are the finishing touch to your quilt, just like jewelry is to your outfits, or buttons to your garments.

All you need to do is cut a strip of fabric for your quilt sleeve (you can piece the strip if you need to):

• Measure the width of the finished quilt and add 1"; this will give you the length of the strip with a 1/2" turn-under at each end. If you want to turn under more than 1/2", add more to the length.
• Determine the width of the strip, allowing adequate room for the curtain rod (or whatever you are going to use to hold the quilt up). I cut mine 2 1/2" wide.

Set your serger for a rolled hem stitch. It can be either a 2-thread or 3-thread rolled edge; the choice is up to you. Don't you just love having the opportunity to make choices?

I like to use the same thread that I used to quilt my quilt. I place this in the upper looper for a 3-thread rolled hem, or in the lower looper for a 2-thread rolled hem. For this quilt I used Oliver Twist variegated thread.

Turn under 1/2" (or more, if you added length) at each short end of the strip. Roll hem both long edges, lining up the edge of the strip with the edge of the serger stitch plate. This makes a nice hemmed edge.

Using the same thread and a hand-sewing needle, slip stitch the long top edge of the strip to the quilt.

Place the quilt face down, with the strip flat. Slide the lower edge of the strip toward the top of the quilt, creating a "tunnel" for the curtain rod to go through. Whip stitch this edge in place.

A few years later, while taking a guide class for my new BERNINA sewing machine, the teacher instructed the class on how to do a rolled hem with our machines. I chuckled to myself as I began to understand that what I thought was an error on my part was actually the way it was supposed to be - a rolled hem! I later learned that there is a special foot to finish off seams that would prevent my fabric from rolling as I zigzag stitched off the edge - Overlock Foot #2.

That brings me to Part 2 of my 3-part series on the many uses of Buttonhole Foot #3/3C. Achieving a nice narrow hem is difficult when done the traditional way of turning up the fabric, pressing, then stitching. It is very easy to burn your fingers while ironing, and it is sometimes tricky to get an evenly pressed edge, which results in a crooked hem - not so pretty. You can attain the result of a narrow rolled hem by using Buttonhole Foot #3/3C - not by "mistake," but rather as a "happy accident" because of the way the fabric reacts as it is zigzag stitched off the edge.

To begin - I use a rotary cutter to make sure that my fabric edge has a clean cut and is free of any threads poking out. This technique is facilitated best on lightweight fabrics like quilting cottons or batiste. You will also want to practice this, as the machine settings may vary according to the fabric, thread, and tension settings on your machine. The following is a good starting point for you to work from to achieve the best results for your project.

Attach Foot #3/3C to your machine. Select the zigzag stitch. Make the stitch wider - for the cotton fabric in the sample I set my stitch width between 4.0 and 4.5mm. Set the stitch length at 1.5mm.

Move the needle to the mid-left position. I also tighten my bobbin tension as if I were doing embroidery.

Align the fabric so that the right edge of the fabric is in the center of the middle toe of the foot. Begin with the needle penetrating the fabric on the left; as the needle swings off the fabric it will pull/roll the fabric under as it stitches. I found that a consistent moderate speed worked best.

I hvae used this technique for many different applications: to ruffle hems, to make ties for my daughter's dresses, to make fabric ribbon, and to sew the hem on a nightgown. I did use it as a seam finish - by mistake - once, but I have since purchased a serger to finish my seams. Yes, I can use my serger for a rolled hem, but there are still some times when a machine rolled hem is a better choice - and it is purely an esthetic choice. I really have fun with this technique and it always brings a smile to my face as I recall the day I learned it the hard way!

The sleeves can be shortened to elbow length, the top can be lengthened for a tunic or dress, and ease can be added to the bust, waist, and hips for an easier fit. In addition, I can see the turtleneck eliminated and the top made with a neckline binding instead. For those of you who like to draft different types of necklines, additional variations are possible.

After printing the pattern and cutting out your fabric, use one of the BERNINA sergers to construct your T-shirt. Fast and easy!

Some of us - especially me - have gotten Spring Fever so bad that on my days off I am going through 27 years of sewing samples and clothes to get rid of. My middle sister came over to help me, and - as she says - to slap my hands whenever I try to keep something that she thinks should go. She loves it every time she gets to slap my hands! As of this weekend we have gotten rid of six heaping full shopping carts (the big ones, not the little ones). And I now have a very smug big sister!

This is also the perfect week to clean and oil your sewing machines. Especially your serger! For some reason we tend to forget to clean our sergers and replace the needles. How long have those needles been in there??? You will be amazed at how much better your serger with stitch. It will just purr after getting new needles, a dusting, some swipes with a brush, and a few drops of oil.

Most sergers take just a drop of oil at the places indicated here by the red arrows. Check your serger owner's manual to see where your serger should be oiled.

You know when you're trying to balance tension on the loopers of your serger and no matter how hard you try, you can never find tune the stitches? Well, MTC takes care of that for you! One you have the tension close to being balanced, you can use the Micro Thread Control knob to fine tune the seam. It's super easy to use and makes those tension headaches go away. I think I'll have to use my serger more for decorative things from now on!

Ed. Learn more about Paula's serging adventures in BERNINA of America's Through the Needle issue #33 - "Jacket x 3."

I scanned the pattern pieces of the upper front, lower front, and upper back panels into v6 DesignerPlus BERNINA Embroidery Software, then used them as templates for combining designs and auditioning placement before sending the completed arrangements to the embroidery system. No more guessing - it's just that simple!

The knit jacket was constructed with exposed seams using a three-thread serger stitch and threads that matched the embroidery designs and color of the jacket. I love the serger - it adds such a professional look to garments and really made this jacket quick and easy to assemble. This pattern lends itself to many possibilities and I can't wait to serge up another!

I had so much fun using the BERNINA Embroidery Software Quilter program to create "Going in Circles." The pattern I chose was the Drunkard's Path, and I used the software to audition how I wanted the blocks to go together.

I used a 4-thread overlock stitch to piece the quilt together, and a combination of chain- and cover-stitching to quilt the blocks. "Going in Circles" was stitched on a BERNINA 1300 MDC, but other sergers with these stitches could also be used. King Tut by Superior Threads was used in the needles and coverstitch looper, with Pearl Crown Rayon by YLI in the chainstitch looper.

Ed: Instructions for this quilt will be posted at www.berninausa.com in the near future.

Step 1 - Cut fabric into 2 1/2" squares. You will need three squares for each tree.

Step 2 - Fold each square diagonally to form a triangle. Press.

Step 3 - Select a decorative thread such as YLI Monet or YLI Woolly Nylon. Set serger up for a 2-thread or 3-thread rolled hem following the instructions in your serger manual. (Alternatively, set serger for a narrow 3-thread balanced overlock with decorative thread in the loopers.)

• If using a 2-thread rolled hem, use a decorative thread in the lower looper and regular serger thread in the needle. Stitch finger in the rolled hem position.
• If using a 3-thread rolled hem, use decorative thread in the upper and lower loopers and regular serger thread in the needle. Stitch finger in the rolled hem position.
• If you want, you can use a 3-thread balanced overlock stitch with decorative thread in both loopers and regular serger thread in the right needle, with the stitch finder in the regular position.

Stitch along one side of each triangle, making a "chain" of serged triangles.

Step 4 - Fill each triangle with fiberfill or cotton balls. Serge the open sides shut, beginning stitching at the folded end. Dab seam sealant on each corner; after it dries, trim any excess thread.

Step 5 - Cut a piece of felt for the tree trunk.

Step 6 - Hand sew all three triangles together with the points pointing up. Then handstitch the tree trunk in place at the bottom of the tree and stitch a ribbon loop at the top of the tree. Alternatively, join all the pieces using a glue gun.

Step 7 - Stitch a ribbon loop to the top of the tree to use it as an ornament, or attach a paper or cardboard tube to the back to make it into a napkin ring.

Step 8 - Use a Sharpie marker to write the date and/or name on the tree trunk.

2-thread rolled hem using YLI Monet thread.

Balanced narrow 3-thread overlock with YLI Monet.

YLI Woolly Nylon

I could really relate to the story of having your hair made into ringlets as a little girl! That's why my neck purse has tighter ringlets that the book shows! A great technique!

Embroider names on them and make a bunch for all your friends. Each one takes just a little bit of fabric and batting, embroidery thread, and a spool or two or serger thread for finishing the edges. Options include a 2-thread wrap stitch, shown here with YLI Woolly Nylon in the lower looper, or a 3-thread overlock with decorative thread in the upper and lower loopers. For instructions, CLICK HERE.

Measure the window and buy 1 yard more than the width of the window. Cut the yardage in half along the lengthwise direction. Set your serger for a 3-thread rolled hem and stitch along each edge. Trim the threads and you are ready to install your valance.

Install a drapery tie back at the top of each side of the window. Place the valance in the middle of the window and wrap the end of the valance around each drapery tie back. Tie the ends and shape into a "rose" at each end. Enjoy!

First, search the back of your closet or the discount racks for a plain sweater dress.

Next, cut off the skirt. Split the skirt to make one large rectangle.

Last, serge all the raw edges. Leave long thread tails at the corners of the pashmina, then add beads for a final decorative touch.

Thank you, Amanda!

Gauze can be tricky to stitch, as it tends to stretch out of shape. This top is basically a "bishop" style, with sleeves, front, and back stitched together on the diagonal. By setting the differential feed at about 1.5, the fabric was fed under the presser foot faster than it was pulled out the back, which prevented the gauze from stretching. Bonus: all those ravelly edges were overcast, too!

It's hard to see in the photo, but there are two tiers of ruffles along the lower edge...so not only is the hem stretchy, hard-to-handle gauze, but cut partly on the bias and partly on grain. A serged rolled edge was simple; I don't even want to think how tedious a regular hem would have been!

The skirt was quick and simple. After printing the Gored Skirt pattern I drew points at the lower edge of each segment to create a shaped hem. I roll hemmed the points, then flatlocked all the sections together with the "squiggles" side showing on the outside. Then I stitched the waistband to the top with a 4-thread overlock stitch, inserted the elastic, and it was done!

Why the neatly labeled swatches? One of the classes I'm teaching at Bernina University is on sergers. Erika & I are both traveling to Kansas City tomorrow; we start teaching on Wednesday. I'm not sure we'll have time to blog while we're gone, but we'll have lots of things to share when we get back!

"I was thinking about my first project and how far I've come with my sewing. I was 19 years old when I took my first sewing class at Jacksonville State University. Sewing was not remotely related to my major, but I had an internal desire to create and signed up for a basic clothing construction class. I had wanted to sew since I was a little girl and was elated at the prospect of unleashing my creativity.

"Many of us call college the "lean" years. I seldom had extra money for a potato, much less fabric. I remember getting just enough fabric for the project and praying it wouldn't go over budget. The project was a classic button down shirt, topstitched with precision on a Bernina 830 (a machine in the school's sewing lab). Every seam was carefully constructed and finished with an overlock stitch on the serger. An edgestitch foot was used to topstitch around the edges. Wearing the shirt was a huge highlight, especially when someone found out that I made it (what a self-esteem booster!). I keep the shirt in my closet and occasionally slip it on to remember the excitement of my first class and what I learned from a basic shirt. I'm so thankful that my school had Bernina machines because I know the superior machine contributed to my success and promoted my love of sewing."

I was around 11 years old, still in 4-H, and still remember going fabric shopping for "kettle cloth." I'm still not sure where "kettle" comes from, but it's a woven cotton fabric that's easy to work with and presses well. I made this on the sewing my parents bought in 1965 - a Riccar that came free with the purchase of a $79 sewing cabinet. It went forward and backward - straight stitch only - no zigzag - and it's what I sewed on until I was 12 or 13. All of my seam allowances are straight stitched 1/4" from the raw edge, then hand-overcast - miles and miles of hand-sewing, that took forever! Now I zip right along on my BERNINA and Overlock Foot #2, or - better yet - use my serger to trim and overcast at the same time. But I did a good job, even with so much hand-sewing, and won a purple ribbon at the county fair :)

What was your first project? I've been asking some of my friends, and will be posting some of their stories over the next few weeks.