By Debbi Lashbrook, BERNINA Educator
Here's a tee shirt idea which can be done using the tunic or default length of the Tee Shirt in My Label 3D Fashion Pattern Software.

Altering Style Properties: Decide on the length for your ruched tee shirt; change the Style Properties for the My Label T-Shirt so that the finished length from center back equals this amount. I used 33.5" for the finished length in the sample shown here.
Add ease at the hips by increasing the hip circumference Style Property by 1.5". If you wish to scoop the neckline, draw a new neckline using the Pencil tool. On the sample I scooped the neckline 1" at center front and 1/2" at the shoulder seams. If you change the neckline of the tee shirt front, make a corresponding change to the back neckline so the shoulder seams will sew together properly.
Use the Pencil tool to draw a seam on the left side of the tee shirt front. Draw this line about 1" from the left neck/shoulder seam point to the hem, parallel to the grainline.
You may shorten the sleeve in Style Properies if desired. The sleeve in the sample was shortened to 18".
Print the pattern pieces.

Preparing the Pattern Pieces: If you scooped the neckline, cut the pattern along the new neckline seam on both the front and the back pattern pieces. Cut along the vertical seam line to split the front into two pieces. Add a seam allowance to the right front, then draw a facing for the right front by tracing the shoulder seam, the seam allowance, and the hemline. Make the facing 1 3/4" wide.

Make a fold-back facing for the left front. Extend the edge of the left front 2 1/4"; this will allow for a 3/4" underlap and a 1 1/2" facing. Tape a piece of tissue paper to the left front to draw this extension. Mark the underlap line. Fold the facing to the wrong side of the pattern along the underlap line. While it is folded, cut along the pattern neckline to properly shape the facing so that it exactly matches the left front.

Using a ruler, draw eight slash lines from the vertical seamline upwards on the right front pattern piece. Begin the slash lines about 8" from the shoulder and end them about 11 1/2" from the hem. The lines do not have to be parallel, but they should be equidistant at the vertical edge. On the sample the slash lines were placed 1 3/4" apart. (The blue arrow indicates the cutting direction for the next step.)

Cut along the slash lines from the vertical seam to the stitching line of the right front; this point will be used as a pivot point. Place tissue paper under the pattern and tape the split pattern to the tissue so that it is flat and the distance between the ends of the slashed lines measures 1 1/2". You will need to create a pleat in the seam allowance at the opposite side of the slashes. Mark the top and bottom edges of each of the tucks.

Fold the slash lines from the bottom line to the top line, matching the original cut lines. Pin in place. While they are folded, cut across the cutting lines. This will establish the correct shape of the seamline.

Constructing the Top: Cut the pattern pieces from knit fabric. Be sure to mark the top and bottom edges of each of the tucks.
Fold the tucks in the right front by matching the lower marks to the upper marks. Baste in place. Attach the facing, then understitch the seam. Fold the facing along the foldline of the left front and press in place.
With both pieces right side up, lay the right front over the left front, matching the original vertical cut lines. Stitch in place through all layers, creating a faux placket. Sew two buttons between each set of tucks and sew four buttons in the tucked area. Eighteen 1/2" buttons were used on the sample.
Continue to construct your ruched top according to the T-Shirt directions in the My Label software. If changes were made to the original neckline, cut a new bias neckline strip, making the length of the strip 3/4 the measurement of the new neckline.